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  1. #11
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leeds883 View Post
    Just for purely aesthetical reasons. I did it at the same time as I lifted the tank and tucked the wires. The mods combined clean the area up nicely.
    Did you just wrap the wiring loom together with insulation tape, or did you use split convoluted tubing?

    This is split convoluted tubing, it's widely used in the electrical industry to tidy up and protect wiring. It's available online or from good electrical shops in a multitude of diameters.

    R7559013-01.jpg

  2. #12
    Senior Member Leeds883's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluenose-1956 View Post
    Did you just wrap the wiring loom together with insulation tape, or did you use split convoluted tubing?

    This is split convoluted tubing, it's widely used in the electrical industry to tidy up and protect wiring. It's available online or from good electrical shops in a multitude of diameters.

    R7559013-01.jpg
    I did consider using the conduit, but with the various connections and the loom branching off into different directions, I felt it might of added extra bulk. It's quite tight to get all of the loom hidden under the tank.

    I unplugged and re routed everything I could to make it more streamline and wrapped it in pvc tape. Online most suggest to use self amalgamating tape, but I found the electrical tape worked fine.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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  4. #13
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    A good place to use convoluted tubing on stock Sportster's is in front of the right hand side of the seat, on 2014 - up models it looks so unfinished.

    08fe92a5230251d68564d5bc18e6d325 (2).jpg

    Compare it with the 2004 -2013 models, they look a lot cleaner and finished off.

    2013-Harley-Davidson-Sportster-XL883NIron883c (2).jpg

  5. #14
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    The convoluted conduit or Copex as it is often referred to in the trade the fitting of it can be quite difficult as unless you are prepared to de-pin your connectors and feed the cabling through, the conduit would have to he huge to get the connectors through intact. You could always split the Copex lengthwise and fit it as above but this will let moisture in? Cable spiral tidy or spyrowrap is a lot easier to fit, would tidy up the loom and it would only need to be unclipped rather than disconnected and de-pinned.

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
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  6. #15
    Senior Member Leeds883's Avatar
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    Copex generally has a slit in it anyway, in fact you can see it in the picture above

  7. #16
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    Hi Leeds883 Copex is used prolifically both in my current employment in a large major hospital and in my previous as an ETO on high speed catamarans and it is purchased in various sizes from 20mm upwards together with the glands and clips used to mount it in 50 metre and 100 metre coils it is used to protect cables in often harsh and moist areas, perhaps in your experience it is but ‘generally’ it does not come with a slit in it as moisture or oil contaminants would still find a way in which would deteriorate the cables or even track to the connectors. If we need to get the Copex fitted for extra protection where a cable is likely to be chaffed or cut against a metal edge where vibration is present we then cut it ourselves.

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
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  8. #17
    Senior Member Leeds883's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K9F View Post
    Hi Leeds883 Copex is used prolifically both in my current employment in a large major hospital and in my previous as an ETO on high speed catamarans and it is purchased in various sizes from 20mm upwards together with the glands and clips used to mount it in 50 metre and 100 metre coils it is used to protect cables in often harsh and moist areas, perhaps in your experience it is but ‘generally’ it does not come with a slit in it as moisture or oil contaminants would still find a way in which would deteriorate the cables or even track to the connectors. If we need to get the Copex fitted for extra protection where a cable is likely to be chaffed or cut against a metal edge where vibration is present we then cut it ourselves.
    That's fair enough, in my (admittedly limited) experience I've only encountered the pre cut versions, but as you say, thats not always suitable for the application.


    Quote Originally Posted by bluenose-1956 View Post
    A good place to use convoluted tubing on stock Sportster's is in front of the right hand side of the seat, on 2014 - up models it looks so unfinished.
    I've often wondered what could be done about that, I'm not sure that the copex wouldn't make it look a little "industrial"

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  10. #18
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Kopex is a brand name used by Thomas & Betts, they manufacture Adaptaflex flexible conduit in polypropylene (armoured and unarmoured), also in 304 and 316 grade stainless steel. Adaptaflex normally uses glands at either end, these can be made from either polypropylene, brass or galvanised steel. Adaptaflex and it's Dutch rival Anaconda are widely used in the machine tool industry.

    AF20BSB.JPG

    Kopex armoured Adaptaflex.
    d345a0d0d0ac49b110eff9c5cc6db692ece3b327.jpg

    Kopex stainless steel Adaptaflex.

    F0852429-01.jpg

    The convoluted corrugated tubing is available in smaller sizes than Adaptaflex in either split or non-split, I've used 6mm i/d split convoluted tubing to protect the wiring on my relocated front turn signals.

    As K9F said spiral wrap is also useful for wrapping cables on motorcycles, I used some black spiral wrap around my stainless braided brake hoses on my Benelli Sei to prevent the hoses from chaffing the paintwork. I also use it as a cable tidy in the home, it does the job perfectly.

    Spiral wrap.

    hella-spiral-cable-wrap-12mm.jpg

  11. #19
    Senior Member Gettin'onabit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leeds883 View Post
    Just for purely aesthetical reasons. I did it at the same time as I lifted the tank and tucked the wires. The mods combined clean the area up nicely.
    Does the bracket run between the heads with one bolt each side; with a dropdown at right angles for the coils?

  12. #20
    Senior Member Leeds883's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gettin'onabit View Post
    Does the bracket run between the heads with one bolt each side; with a dropdown at right angles for the coils?
    Yes, the bracket is secured by the torx bolts on the heads with the coil bolted to it so the coil sits in between the two cylinders. There is a picture of it on page 1 of this thread.

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