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  1. #1
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    Hello and advice please

    Hello I’m a born again! However being new to Harley, I own a 2016 sportster 1200 it came with screaming eagle slip ons but not tuned, I have heard of Diag4bike stage 1, are they any good will it work as the screaming eagle stage 1, it’s considerably cheaper, is that a good thing?

    Vince

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    bluenose-1956 (05-24-2018)

  3. #2
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum Vince from Calderdale in West Yorkshire.

    I haven't Stage 1'd my Sportster yet, so I can't give you any advise about Diag4bike compared to Screamin'Eagle.

    I've had all the items for a Stage 1 upgrade for four years, S.E. air filter, S.E. race tuner and Python 3 slip-on's, I'm just too bloody idle to install them.

  4. #3
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    Hi and welcome.
    I'd never heard of diag4bike until now so can't help on that front. My 1200 sporty is staged 1 and I used a V&H fuel pack 3 which works very well.

  5. #4
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    Welcome Vince

    I went through the stage 1 process last year and looked into it extensively. Your best bet is either the SE pro tuner or the Power commander V and a fast flow air filter. To tune the bike properly you will need to have a fuel map produced which keeps the stoichiometric point within certain parameters at different engine conditions and revs. You cannot do this accurately with generic maps unfortunately but can get improvements over standard mapping. This is what the FP3 offers. The only way to set your mapping accurately is to invest in some dyno time along with one of the modules mentioned and you get the best returns of power and torque. Mine currently delivers around 55mpg after tuning. Diag4buike I understood to be diagnostic software, not an electronic tuning module. For Harley's you use an electronic tuning box which is then dedicated to your bike. Software to accompany the modules is downloaded to a laptop and the bike tuned via the module with computer connected. The only exception I'm aware of is the FP3 which can be used with a map downloaded to your smart phone and a bluetooth link created to the bike. You download the map, tune the bike and remove the FP3. Owners report variable results using the V&H autotune feature. I wanted the job done right instead of faffing about with generic maps (which is what the FP3 offers) so went the pro-tuner route instead.
    Last edited by BuckhornBud; 05-26-2018 at 08:17 AM.

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    rodee13 (05-30-2018)

  7. #5
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    I have the FP3 and yes it has a vast collection of maps (created from real dyno work) once you reflash the bikes ECM with a suitable map you then fine tune it using the FP3 and riding the bike whilst the FP performs adjustments to fuelling over the full rev range, you can then if you wish disconnect the FP once the fine tuning is complete.

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnythefox View Post
    I have the FP3 and yes it has a vast collection of maps (created from real dyno work) once you reflash the bikes ECM with a suitable map you then fine tune it using the FP3 and riding the bike whilst the FP performs adjustments to fuelling over the full rev range, you can then if you wish disconnect the FP once the fine tuning is complete.
    Yes, sorry, should have mentioned that they were derived from dyno results. The tech doing mine advised me though that every engine is different and that even if dyno derived fuel maps were derived from various bolt-on variations of pipe and cleaner, it wasn't the same thing as a bespoke map for a specific engine. I guess that you have to account for where the work was done (for example a dyno test run in the dry Arizona desert at low humidity and high temperature will have different fuelling considerations than one done in the UK) as well as for engine specifics (no two will really be identical in requirements). The V&H is a good option if you don't want to go the whole hog. Did you find the autotune was better than the downloaded map for your set-up out of interest? (I've read where many people preferred the running on one of the downloaded maps).

    Another thing for those with a 2 yr warranty to consider is to check whatever solution you choose won't invalidate that warranty.

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    Johnnythefox (05-26-2018)

  10. #7
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    I found that auto tuning didn't make very much difference, things maybe measurable but to the human rider they will be subjective. Dyno is the better route every time but a device like a FP3 does allow the owner to update as many times as they like for no further cost whereas a dyna tune is required if you ever change any component. I have a Screaming Eagle heavy breather, V&H SS and the FP3 the Harley tax was paid for by the PO which made the price wanted for the bike even more reasonable, I have no backfire, no flat spot, plug colour is good. FP3 does a whole load more things but I am still learning about the extra functions.

  11. #8
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    Hi, I got a 2016 883 with stage 1 upgrades, Vans & Hines short shots, heavy breather and SE pro tuner (orange box).
    In order to change the mapping, I would have to get the connectors and software as well ? or do i have to take it to HD dealers all the time ?
    I saw the leads are available to buy but not sure about the software and cost for it, it would be very helpful to know more about it.

  12. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodee13 View Post
    Hi, I got a 2016 883 with stage 1 upgrades, Vans & Hines short shots, heavy breather and SE pro tuner (orange box).
    In order to change the mapping, I would have to get the connectors and software as well ? or do i have to take it to HD dealers all the time ?
    I saw the leads are available to buy but not sure about the software and cost for it, it would be very helpful to know more about it.
    Harley Davidson offer this download, don't know if it helps? http://prosupertuner.harley-davidson...uperTuner.aspx

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    rodee13 (06-11-2018)

  14. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnythefox View Post
    Harley Davidson offer this download, don't know if it helps? http://prosupertuner.harley-davidson...uperTuner.aspx
    thanks!, yes downloaded it on my laptop, just needed the serial number of the orange box (also works if one enters a series of 1's)

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