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  1. #1
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    Post FLSTC 1450 Won't Start.

    HELP !
    Hi Guys, 2001 FLSTC1450 carb model, owned for 17 years. Blew cobwebs off last week and started in my garage, all good rolled it out Friday for first run of the year but wouldn't start. Checked fuel, drained fuel, removed filter, drained carb, refill with fresh fuel, still no go......even with a squirt of easy start..tut !
    Battery on opti mate so plenty of cranking amps
    Turn to spark, try plug to ground, fairly weak orange spark, try spare set of leads and plugs.....still orange spark and not firing.
    Inspect ignition module and connectors. Am I correct in thinking there should be a blue spark ? If so, could it be coil or voltage regulator faulty ??

    Thanks for any help in advance

    Mick
    Last edited by mooseman1450; 05-10-2018 at 10:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member steveket's Avatar
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    Hi I’m no expert but a few quick internet reads suggests the coil is your next place to look. There are mixed opinions about spark colour, the general opnion seems blue = strong and orange = weak and so we end up thinking coil next. Breakdown membership? ...They may at least test the coil performance? Anyhow, just sharing what’s out there via google. Best of luck.

  3. #3
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    Hi Steve, many thanks for your input......will let you know

  4. #4
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    Hi again, new coil fitted yesterday but still wont fire. Turned over with a spare plug to ground, spark looks quite weak.
    Pulled and checked crank sensor as well........Still searching !!
    Last edited by mooseman1450; 05-24-2018 at 10:44 AM.

  5. #5
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    if the spark 'jumps the gap' it should fire, you need air and fuel too...

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Johnnythefox For This Useful Post:

    mooseman1450 (05-29-2018)

  7. #6
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    Back again !
    Still no further forward. Carb off and cleaned, refitted, still no fire...even with easy start down the carb throat. Convinced it must be spark related. Used contact cleaner on ignition switch. I think the only other things in circuit are regulator and ignition module ?

  8. #7
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    Crank position sensor is often the culprit in exactly the same conditions presented.

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
    TREAT EVERY DAY AS YOUR LAST.....ONE DAY YOU WILL BE RIGHT!!

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to K9F For This Useful Post:

    mooseman1450 (06-05-2018)

  10. #8
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    K9F, OK thanks, is there a way I can test for resistance for early/total failure?
    Just priced at one at £50

  11. #9
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    Ideally you need an oscilloscope to test it correctly. Nevertheless a bike as old as yours a simple clean has been known to work wonders. Below is a cut and paste from another forum. I have never used the process below. The crank position sensor is basically works on an inductive principe whereupon teeth act upon a pickup. As mentioned if it is caked in crud that too could cause your issue.

    The CKP sensor has a B+ power supply, a ground, and a signal circuit.

    As the crankshaft rotates, the wheel teeth interrupt a magnetic field produced by a magnet within the sensor. The sensor's internal circuitry detects this and produces a signal which the ECM reads. The ECM uses this signal to accurately measure crankshaft velocity which is a variable used in order to detect misfire, spark and, fueling.

    Looking at your service manual find the wire that goes to the B+ Measure from this wire to ground for the DC supply voltage. Measurement should be taken on the sensor side of the connector. Ground connection as well.

    On my Dyna this wire is marked BK for Black. Do this test at rest and with the engine spinning. A loose connection could break as the motor shakes.

    If you have voltage present with the key on and with the engine spinning move the positive meter lead to the Signal wire. This is marked R for Red on my Dyna. With the engine spinning you should see a voltage signal on that wire.

    You should measure the signal at the sensor connector and the ecm to verify it is reaching the brain.

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
    TREAT EVERY DAY AS YOUR LAST.....ONE DAY YOU WILL BE RIGHT!!

  12. #10
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    OK Guys, problem solved (I hope, thanks K9F) Pulled the old crank sensor and although clean I opted for new crank sensor and......bingo !
    Many thanks for all your input.....now I've got output !

    Ciao for now

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