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  1. #1
    Senior Member Gettin'onabit's Avatar
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    Maxi Fuse - Tell me again, please.

    I am going to fit a tacho kit - the destructions say pull the Maxi Fuse. OK Fair enough, but......

    ....when I changed my battery when I first got the bike I just undid the negative lead from the crankcase - no problem.

    Re-fitting the lead with the new battery, the alarm system shrieked; but thankfully stopped.

    I have a proximity fob and an ignition key for this model.

    So......do I just pull the Maxi-Fuse out or do I have to have the ignition on when I do it? Or shall I just have the fob on the seat while I do everything without pulling fuse?

    Thanks, AL

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    bluenose-1956 (03-20-2018)

  3. #2
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Hello AL,

    When I do any electrical work on my Iron, I turn the ignition to the on position and then I remove the 30 amp maxi fuse. If you have the ignition switched on, when you pull the maxi fuse the alarm won't sound. On my 2011 Iron the maxi fuse holder is mounted on the battery strap by a keyhole shaped cut out. I'd recommend pulling the maxi fuse before performing any electrical work on your Sportster, it will kill the electrical system so there's no chance of shorting anything out.

    zme5oj.jpg 134764.jpg


    If you follow the H-D instructions the installation is straight forward. Good luck!

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    Gettin'onabit (03-20-2018)

  5. #3
    Senior Member Gettin'onabit's Avatar
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    Thanks Dave - Ignition ON and pull fuse, it is then.

    I have the same fuse holder mounting.

    Not looking forward to finding the harness connector under the tank, though. I never like unbolting things (like the tank) when it hasn't been taken off before.

    AL

  6. #4
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gettin'onabit View Post
    Thanks Dave - Ignition ON and pull fuse, it is then.

    I have the same fuse holder mounting.

    Not looking forward to finding the harness connector under the tank, though. I never like unbolting things (like the tank) when it hasn't been taken off before.

    AL

    No probs AL,

    Does your speedo housing bolt onto the handle bar clamp or is yours an all in one with the speedo housing and handlebar clamp as a single unit? If it's the latter you'll need a separate handle bar clamp, if you need one, I have a couple of spares.

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    Gettin'onabit (03-20-2018)

  8. #5
    Senior Member Gettin'onabit's Avatar
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    Looks like mine are separate items Dave......but thanks for the offer.

    BTW - I have just gone through my Owners Handbook and a 2006 workshop manual - both say pull the Maxi-Fuse but no mention of switching on the ignition first. Odd?

    I just had a quick look to see if I could spot the connector under the tank - Hell no......plastic wiring harness covers in the way, so it is lift the tank it seems.
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    Last edited by Gettin'onabit; 03-20-2018 at 04:26 PM.

  9. #6
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gettin'onabit View Post
    Looks like mine are separate items Dave......but thanks for the offer.

    BTW - I have just gone through my Owners Handbook and a 2006 workshop manual - both say pull the Maxi-Fuse but no mention of switching on the ignition first. Odd?

    I just had a quick look to see if I could spot the connector under the tank - Hell no......plastic wiring harness covers in the way, so it is lift the tank it seems.

    Thanks for the photo AL,

    I have a genuine H-D parts catalogue, free down load from Carl Salter site, the parts list has both types of speedo housing, that's why I asked you. It's safer to remove your fuel tank first before looking for the wiring connector. I know it's a pain removing the tank, when I was installing my front LED indicators I just pulled the tank rearwards and left it resting on the frame. I left the bike to get my cable ties and I heard a loud bang, the tank which was 3/4 full fell off the frame and landed on the top of the primary drive case, I ended up with three dings on the top near side of the tank, I got a panel beater to knock out the dings, cost me £50, much cheaper than a new tank, but if I hadn't been so lazy and removed the tank first off it wouldn't have got damaged.

    There is a black torx screw near the front of the left hand plastic cover that hides the wiring harness, if you remove that screw you'll gain access to the connector blocks. You might also want to remove the ignition coil too, it's in the way.

    I've noticed you have a black speedo bezel, the tachometer will match it.

    It certainly won't do any harm to have the ignition on before removing the main fuse, I've tried it without and my alarm went off. There were changes made to the electrical system in 2010, possibly that's why mine's different to yours.

    Good luck.

    Dave.

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  11. #7
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Hello AL,

    Here's a Delboy's Garage video showing how to remove a Sportster EFI petrol tank.

    Last edited by bluenose-1956; 03-20-2018 at 09:47 PM.

  12. #8
    Senior Member Gettin'onabit's Avatar
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    Thanks Dave, I was thinking there must be more to just pulling the Maxi-Fuse....

    Otherwise nicking a Sportster is as easy as whipping the battery cover off and pulling the fuse out.....Surely not, but it seems so on my year,

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    bluenose-1956 (03-20-2018)

  14. #9
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    Ok AL,

    You'd be best chaining your Sportster to an immovable object, like a street lamp.

    Mind you if they want to steal it they will what ever you do, My mates Yamaha FJ1100 was stolen by thieves putting a scaffolding pole through each wheel, they carried it off and lifted it into their Transit van.

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    Gettin'onabit (03-21-2018)

  16. #10
    Senior Member Gettin'onabit's Avatar
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    Street lamp? Out here? LOL.

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