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  1. #1
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    2015 Fat Bob Twin Headlamps

    Hi Everyone,
    This is my first time on the Forum so I am not sure if i am doing this right but if not please forgive me and advise on any wrong doings.

    My question is- I have a 2015 Fat Bob and i want to get the twin headlamps to work together, IE both on when in low beam and both on when in High beam, i had a 2009 CVO Fat Bob and i bought an american domestic twin head lamp unit with the H3 connectors which i fitted and everything worked OK, Both Lamps on in both High and low beam, Great.
    Now i believe the newer Bikes 2011 on have a module which senses voltage differences and flashes up a fault warning, do any of you guys/girls have any info on this and if so how can i get around it?
    Thanks in advance,
    Nige

  2. #2
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    First of all welcome to the forum.

    Without the diagram for the newer model even I as an electrical engineer would be unable to assist. Do you have the Clymer manual for your bike? This would reveal how either to either circumvent totally or pinout this module to work with dual headlights. Alternatively sound out your dealer to see if they have someone knowledgeable enough in electrics in their workshop to advise.

    If this module is just rumour and conjecture you could try 'jury rigging' the headlights into your bike to see if they work. What could possibly go wrong?
    Last edited by K9F; 03-27-2016 at 11:10 AM.

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
    TREAT EVERY DAY AS YOUR LAST.....ONE DAY YOU WILL BE RIGHT!!

  3. #3
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    Hi Mate,
    thanks for the response.
    I only have a Clymer manual for the older modles (pre 2011), I am going to have a chat with one of the Local HD tech guys to see if they have come across this before and maybe they can help, if not I will have a go at loose fixing it first before I start cutting and hard wiring it, it may blow a fuse or show a diagnostic fault but then i will have to relook at it, Surely I cannot be the first guy with a Fat Bob to want both head lamps on together????

  4. #4
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    Either way with or without a module there will be two independent lives for the two separate lights, either fed into or out of the 'new module.' These independent live feeds will just need paralleling off together (or if the module has a single feed this one will need splitting to power the two lights) so they both come on at the same time. If you have a voltmeter you should be able to determine where your live is and then 'loop out' and splice the two into one (or one into two accordingly). Hope this makes sense. As long as your wiring, relays and fuses are upgraded to take into account the increased current draw from the second light nothing should go 'pop.'
    Last edited by K9F; 03-29-2016 at 12:22 PM.

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
    TREAT EVERY DAY AS YOUR LAST.....ONE DAY YOU WILL BE RIGHT!!

  5. #5
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    Hi Nige

    I have been wondering about this too over the past few weeks. I can't seem to get any info out of the dealer, and I can only find stuff on the american Harley forum's which isn't particularly helpful as it dates back from about 2008.

    If you do get any more information, I'd be really interested to know.

  6. #6
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    If anyone wanting to find out is near my neck of the woods or planning to be I can sort this but would need to carry out a few checks with a voltmeter on your machine. Alternatively find someone with the technical acumen and a decent voltmeter where you live. I am sure it wouldn't take much more than 20 minutes or so?

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
    TREAT EVERY DAY AS YOUR LAST.....ONE DAY YOU WILL BE RIGHT!!

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to K9F For This Useful Post:

    mbird99 (03-29-2016)

  8. #7
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    I spoke to someone else at the dealers yesterday, and apparently it's not a difficult job. There are some after-market connectors required and about an hours work. They are currently trying to sort out the connectors for me, so when I know more I'll post it up.

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    Maccbob (09-20-2016)

  10. #8
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    A couple of good places I use for all my electrical/connector needs, these are in addition to the 'usual suspects' of Farnells and RS Components of course.

    http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...1e1f7e9c79d0ed

    http://stores.ebay.co.uk/3waycompone...p2047675.l2563

    Land Rover biased but good for bits and pieces.

    http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog...cal_Items.html

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
    TREAT EVERY DAY AS YOUR LAST.....ONE DAY YOU WILL BE RIGHT!!

  11. #9
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    I used to use RS Components and Farnell's when I was buying for Marshalls plc, we nicknamed them Arse and Farts.

    I now use Maplin's in Bradford for my electrical needs.

  12. #10
    Senior Member K9F's Avatar
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    Morning Dave, RS and Farnells are expensive but their ranges HUGE and service great. If you order something before I think 3 or 4pm it's with you the next morning. Maplins is also good but more 'radio ham' oriented, but they do have some nice 'boys toys.' All of them as an electrical engineer are 'electrician porn shops' to me! Great!



    With a project like Nosnibor's satnav or this one Weipu waterproof IP68 connectors are absolutely ideal in an application such as this IMO.

    http://weipuconnector.com/Product_show_8.htm
    Last edited by K9F; 03-31-2016 at 10:47 AM.

    IF YOU GO THROUGH LIFE WITH YOUR HEAD IN THE SAND.....ALL PEOPLE WILL SEE IS AN ARSE!!
    TREAT EVERY DAY AS YOUR LAST.....ONE DAY YOU WILL BE RIGHT!!

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