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  1. #1
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    Clean and polish query

    Hi all,

    As a newbee, I'm keen to keep on top of the maintenance of the bike, particularly the engine, forks and mudguards. It's an XL1200 Custom 2006 and the engine seems to have gathered some dust which is an easy fix using muck remover. Although the forks seem to have some rust spots so not sure whether there is anything other than WD40 to help protect.

    Elsewhere on the bike, I guess I'll just get hold of some regular tank polish and engine polish (Autoglym?)

    Any advice would be much appreciated in terms of products. Not looking for a show piece, but just to maintain.

    Cheers,
    Nicks

  2. #2
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    Cleaning and polishing is a whole can of worms. Everyone has their own favourites, and generally believe they have the best solution

    Personally, I just use normal automotive products, with the exception of using Harley chrome cleaner (which is the best I've ever used) and the Harley Engine Brightener for my crinkley black engine finishes. For the tank and other painted bits, I prefer Autoglym products and tend to finish off with a coat of the high gloss product, which you apply and leave to dry for 30 mins before polishing off.

    For a quick once over, the waterless wash and wax type products (eg Greased Lightning Showroom Shine) do work pretty well, but I would only use them on a relatively clean bike. The thought of using them on a dirty surface doesn't appeal as I'm sure you'd be scratching paint with the dirt and dust already on there if it wasn't washed off first.

    Regarding protecting the forks, if it's winter protection you are after then ACF50 is highly spoken of, but does leave a sticky coating that needs washing off once the crap weather has gone.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator Streetbob's Avatar
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    Here’s my list of preferred products and where I use them....

    1) Autoglym resign polish - all gloss paintwork finishes, including frame
    2) Autosol chrome/metal polish - good for getting rust spots off old chrome, and spokes
    3) T-cut original - good for some soft alloys and chrome as well as scratches in paints and some plastics. T-cut makes a great metal polish as it's not as harsh as Autosol
    4) Motorex Moto-protect - good on everything (except the obvious such as brake discs!) 1000% better than WD40! Black engine casings, alloys parts, plastics etc I've been using this stuff for years and it's awesome!
    5) ACF-50 - I place a tiny drop down every spoke hole once a year, electrical connections, BZP surfaces, bulb holders etc. If you ride all year round then the whole bike gets a smear of this stuff using a soft cloth
    6) Copper slip - on the thread of every bolt that's been replaced by a stainless steel version

    *forgot to add micro-fiber cloths from Costco!
    Last edited by Streetbob; 02-16-2016 at 07:22 PM.

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    Pipe n Slippers (06-14-2016)

  5. #4
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    Thanks guys, I've got some new materials and will go with the advice

  6. #5
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    I use "No More Dirty Bike" on my "883 Iron", it's similar to "Muc Off" but is only a quid from "Poundland" for a one litre spray bottle. "Muc Off" is £6 for a litre bottle, it's a no brainer.

    DB10001.jpgMuc-Off%20Bike%20Cleaner.jpg

    For my Denim Paint, I use "Windolene". It works well and is a lot cheaper than the H-D product, just doesn't smell as nice.

  7. #6
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    Thanks again chaps, I've got the necessary materials and tried them out. Touch wood, all seems to be coming along well. Need to try and maintain the chrome work all over.

    Next is the wheels, which have been powder coated black. I've got the front wire wheel so thinking of way of maintaining those. Thinking of using a soft brush and warm soapy water mainly yo begin with.

  8. #7
    Senior Member bluenose-1956's Avatar
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    What is chrome?

    It's so last Century, Dark Custom is the Future, Paint it Black.
    Last edited by bluenose-1956; 02-19-2016 at 11:44 PM.

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    Streetbob (02-20-2016)

  10. #8
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    For the forks I'd suggest not using WD40 or anything else with a solvent as a carrier. WD is a water dispersent and not intended for contact with rubber surfaces. It wont do the fork seals any good long term. Clean with soap and water, rinse, dry and then apply a little silicone oil or silicone grease. This will protect the fork legs and keep the fork seals supple. Some people use Mr Sheen for the forks as it has silicone in it, plus it's an effective cleaner, but it wont leave enough protection against corrosion.

  11. #9
    Senior Member Whistler's Avatar
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    With any corrosion use acf50, it'll reduce the rust(remove it if you've caught it early enough).
    Other than that I use simonize was and wax, acf 50 and triple wax, colour magic. For the heavy dirt removal I use muc off.
    FTW )

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